City of the month

Prague and music

Venues & Orchestras

History

Music plays a most important role in Prague, making the capital a city where the melodies and airs of the great composers ring out on every street corner. Every church, every grand house, presents a concert or a recital every evening, transforming the city into one giant concert hall.
It is thanks, too, to these composers that Czech music is so internationally renowned.

Great czech composers

Bedrich Smetana (1824-1884) a pupil of Proksch, was at first inspired by Romantic models. Then his language became specifically national, mixing academic Czech music with popular melodies in his compositions. His best known works are Mà Vlast (My Country) (1874-1879) and an opera The Bartered Bride (1866). He was the first conductor of the orchestra of the Czech national opera.

Antonín Dvorák (1841-1904) was in his day one of the best known Czech composers because of his European tours and his time in the United States. He embodies the Romantic period and, like Smetana, the awakening of nationalism.
His musical genius expressed itself in all genres: choral music (Stabat Mater, 1877), symphonic (The 9th “New World” Symphony”, 1893 and 5 symphonic poems), opera (Rusalka, 1900), concertos (Concerto for Violoncello, 1895), trios, quartets and quintets to which must be added the Slav Dances (1878).

Leos Janácek (1854-1928). He began his career in Brno as a music master. He then continued his musical education in Prague, Leipzig and Vienna where he wrote his first works. Influenced by popular music, it was in opera that he best expressed his social and political commitment. His first success was in Prague with Jenufa (1904) in which the musical language is inspired by natural prosody. There followed the masterpieces Katya Kabanova (1921), The Cunning Little Vixen (1923) and The Makropoulos Affair (1925). He also wrote chamber music and symphony music (Sinfonietta, 1926) but remains above all one of the undisputed masters of 20th century opera.

Bohuslav Martinu (1890-1959). A central figure in the inter-war period, he was inspired by impressionist music then, having settled in Paris in the 1920s, he reached maturity through his acquaintance with Albert Roussel, working towards a concise and melodic music with a classical stamp. He wrote a great many works, operas, ballets and chamber music (Half Time, 1924, Juliet or the Key of Dreams 1936, Frescoes of Pierro della Francesca 1955, Parabolas 1958...) In 1935, he was awarded the Czech State Prize for his opera The Miracle of Notre Dame.

Others should be mentioned too, Benda, Myslivecek, Gassmann, Skroup, Fibich, Schulhoff, Vorisek and Zelenka, all certainly lesser known composers but whose valuable contribution to music is undeniable.

Mozart in Prague
Performed in 1787, The Marriage of Figaro was received with such enthusiasm in Prague that Mozart signed a contract for a new opera. In October, he settled in the city where he finished composing Don Giovanni. The overture was written on the eve of the first performance. It is said that the ink on the scores was not yet dry when they were put out on the players’ stands. It was a success without equal.

Národní Divadlo - Programme see calendar.
In the neo-Renaissance style, this symbol of the independence and character of Czech culture was built in 1881 as the result of a public fund-raising campaign even though the country was under Austro-Hungarian rule. It was damaged by fire in the year of its official opening and re-opened two years later with the opera Libuse by Smetana. Today it presents top class performances and productions of works by Czech and foreign composers.

Statní Opera Praha - Programme see calendar.
Built in 1888, it was created to provide a venue for German drama and opera, such as the works of Wagner. Behind the neo-classical main façade, the auditorium still has its original paintings and has preserved its rococo style. Today this theatre presents many works by Italian, German and French composers.

Stavovské Divadlo - Programme see calendar.
It was in this theatre that Mozart conducted the first performance of Don Giovanni in 1787, which is why Mozart is still on every season’s programme. Near the Old City square, it is one of the finest theatres in central Europe.

Rudolfinum - Programme see calendar.
Built between 1876 and 1884 in the neo-Renaissance style, it initially housed an art gallery and museum of decorative arts. From 1918 to 1939 the Dvorak hall was the seat of the parliament of the first Czech Republic. Today it is one of the city’s most prestigious concert halls and home of the Ceská Filharmonie.

Orchestras

Ceská Filharmonie - Programme see calendar.
The first concert given by the Czech Philharmonic Orchestra took place on January 4th 1896 conducted by Dvorak at the Rudolfinum. In 1908, Mahler wrote his 7th symphony. The history of the orchestra then becomes intertwined with the career of its distinguished conductors.
The orchestra owes its international renown to Vaclav Talich whose gave it a very specific sound by recruiting the best Czech musicians. His successor, Rafael Kubelik, took the players on a European tour. He managed to maintain its high standard through the war but the political hardening of the Communist regime forced him to emigrate. (It is to Kubelik that we owe the Spring Festival). Karel Ancerl followed him in 1950 and made a large number of recordings, several of which are still considered to be the best yet made. In 1968, Vaclav Neumann became principal Conductor for 22 years and finally made the orchestra specialize in the Czech repertoire and Mahler. The Orchestra today is conducted by Vladimir Ashkenazy - a worthy heir to a great tradition.

Prague Philharmonic Choir
Founded in 1935 by Jan Kühn to meet the needs of radio broadcasting, this Philharmonic Choir is one of the most sought after by great orchestral conductors and music publishers.
The choir has sung all over the world, takes part in numerous music festivals and has recently worked with the Philharmonic Orchestras of Berlin and Israel and the Zurich Tonnhalle.

Prague Symphony and Voice Orchestra
Founded in 1934 by the conductor, Pekárek, and a group of out-of-work musicians, it soon came to specialize in music for films and radio. In less than ten years of existence, the orchestra recorded more than 800 film scores. In 1946 it adopted the title of Symphony Orchestra. Its repertoire is daring and open to contemporary music.

The history of Prague dates from the building of the castle which after 870 became the capital city of the Bohemian dynasty.
The residence of the Premyslides dynasty in the 10th century, the city expanded in the 13th century when Wenceslas I, King of Bohemia, allowed German communities to settle in the area. From 1232, the city became an important trading centre. Four mediaeval towns appeared surrounded by walls: the Old City of Prague (1230), the city of Galls (after 1240), the small town (in 1257) and the city of Hradchine in 1320.
During the reign of Charles IV (1346-1378) Prague developed culturally. He founded the first university in central Europe (1348) and constructed the Charles Bridge, St.Vitus Cathedral, the Karlov church, etc. Prague became one of the greatest cities of central Europe and its middle classes played an important political role during the Hussite revolution (1419-1434).
In 1526, the Austrian Catholic Hapsburgs ruled Bohemia. Prague became the imperial capital and enjoyed a period of prosperity until the death of Rudolph II (1612).
The uprising of the Bohemian nobles against the Hapsburgs in 1618 marked the start of the Thirty Years War. After their defeat at the Battle of the White Mountain (1920) the Czechs lost all their privileges, rights and lands. The Hapsburgs established themselves in Vienna and Prague once more became a provincial capital.
In 1784, the four cities of Prague were united. This period saw the Renaissance of the Czech nation, the beginnings of the Industrial Revolution and the birth of a number of institutions, then the construction of the national theatre (1881), the Czech university (1882), the founding of the Academy of Sciences and Arts (1890) and the National Museum (1890).
When Czechoslovakia was created (1918), Prague became the capital of the new State. Cultural life was enriched by the music of Dvorák, Smetana and Janácek and the writings of Rilke and Kafka.
During the Second World War, Prague was occupied by the Germans but suffered little damage. There was very significant resistance by the inhabitants before the city was liberated by the Americans and Russians in 1945.
After the Communist coup (1948) supported by the Soviet Union, a new Constitution ensuring the domination of the Communist Party was promulgated.
Dubcek’s liberal movement (Prague Spring) which wanted to introduce “socialism with a human face” was halted in 1968 by Soviet tanks. Dubcek was replaced by Gustav Husak.
It was not until the "velvet revolution" (1989) that the Communist regime ended. In 1993 Czechoslovakia split into two independent States: the Czech Republic, of which Prague is the Capital, and Slovakia. The Czech Republic joined NATO in 1999 and is one of the new candidate countries set to join the European Union.

Architecture

Some Highlights

In the surrounding area

Structure of Prague

The lower city stands on the left bank of the Vltala overlooked by Prague castle and Petrín Hill. Crossing Saint Charles Bridge takes you into the old city skirting the Jewish quarter and the new city.
The wealth of historic buildings in the old city includes the University of Prague, the City Hall and the former Jewish quarter and its cemetery. The new city is primarily a shopping and industrial district with numerous public buildings, museums and banks.

Architectural Styles

Romanesque (10th to 13th centuries)
Saint George Basilica
Saint Martin Rotunda, Holy Cross Rotunda, Saint Longin Rotunda

Gothic (13th to 16th centuries)
Saint Agnes-of-Bohemia Monastery
Old New Synagogue
Charles Bridge
Saint Guy Wenceslas and Adalbert Cathedral
Prague castle
Gunpowder Tower
Our Lady of Tyn church

Renaissance (16th century)
Queen Anne’s Belvedere
Real tennis court in the Royal Gardens
Schwarzenberg Palace

Baroque (a movement associated with the rebuilding of Prague after the Thirty Years War. From the 18th century on, Prague was one of the most magnificent Baroque capitals in Europe thanks to architects Christoph and Kilian Ignaz Dientzenhofer, father and son).
Valdstejn Palace
Saint Nicholas church
Our Lady of Lorette
Saint-James’ church
Troja castle

Rococo (late 18th century Baroque style)
Kinsky Palace
Sylva Taroucca Palace

Classicism and Empire (late 18th century)
Stavoské Divadlo
Holy Cross church
U Hybernu Palace

Neo-Renaissance (19th century)
Saint-Peter-and-Paul
Saint Ludmila church
Narodní Divadlo, Rudolphinum
National museum

Art Nouveau (19th and 20th centuries)
With architects Ohmann (1858-1927), Bendelmeyer (1872-1932), Kotera (1871-1923) and Mucha (1860-1939) great defender of modern art.
Europe Hotel and the Paris Hotel
Central Station
Industrial Palace

Cubism
House of the Black Mother of God
Adria Palace

Functionalism
Barrandov terraces
Bíla Labut' department store
Alfa and Blaník Palace

- Charles Bridge
A symbol of the city, the Charles Bridge was constructed in the 14th century to link the Old City to Mala Strana. Today it is a very lively place with numerous stalls selling local crafts.

- Saint James’ Church
Originally Gothic (14th century) in 1689 this church was rebuilt in the Baroque style after a fire.
What to see: paintings by Brandl, Reiner and Heinsch, the tomb of Count Mitrovice. You will also notice, suspended in the entrance, the mummified forearm of a thief who, more than 400 years ago, tried to steal the jewels from the Virgin on the high altar.

- Wenceslas Square
Often called the “Prague Champs Elysées” this square, 750 metres long and 60 wide, has always been used as a place for demonstrations and parades.
It was here that the people of Prague gathered in 1989 to protest against the Communist regime (the Velvet Revolution). Nowadays this very busy square has many shops, cafés and restaurants.

- The Vltava
Celebrated by Smetana in My Country, the Vltava is a place where the people of Prague like to walk. Its source is in the Sumava, a nature reserve in the south of Bohemia, at the Austrian border, and it flows into the Elbe at Melnik, 40 km from Prague.

- Powder Tower
A massive defence tower constructed in the 14th century, it was subsequently used to store gunpowder. Seriously damaged during the Prussian occupation of 1757, it was almost entirely rebuilt in 1876. There is a magnificent view of the city from its walkway. A massive defence tower constructed in the 14th century, it was subsequently used to store gunpowder. Seriously damaged during the Prussian occupation of 1757, it was almost entirely rebuilt in 1876. There is a magnificent view of the city from its walkway

- Tower of the old city bridge
Constructed in the late 14th century in the Gothic style, this tower defends the eastern access to the Charles Bridge. It forms part of the old fortifications of the Old City.

- Prague Castle
Official residence of the President of the Czech Republic, this castle comprises the Royal Palace, three churches, a cathedral, a monastery and gardens.
What to see: the Gothic cathedral with stained glass windows by Alfons Mucha, the Saint George Romanesque basilica, the Golden Alley with Kafka’s house, the Royal Gardens, Loreta church.
An excellent collection of 16th to 18th century European Baroque paintings.

- Josefov Jewish Quarter
The history of the Jewish quarter goes back to the Middle Ages, when western Jews and Jews from the Byzantine Empire lived side by side. Growing discrimination forced the two communities to unite. The last Jews were gradually confined to a ghetto corresponding to the present Josefov district. The period of repression ended in 1784, when Joseph II granted equal social and political rights to the Jews.
The Czech Jewish community is now one of the smallest in Europe even though it seems to have revived again since the collapse of Communism.
What to see: the old cemetery, the Old New synagogue, the Klaus synagogue, the Pinkas synagogue and the old city hall.

- City Hall Square
What to see:
- City hall tower and clock
- Our Lady of Tyn
- Saint Nicholas Baroque church
- Statue of Jan Hus, a Church reformer

Gardens and Green Spaces

- Gardens of historic palaces
These gardens offer some magnificent sights and are amongst Europe’s most important Baroque gardens.
- Ledebour Gardens (a terraced Baroque garden dating from the early 18th century)
- Pálffy Gardens (gardens devoted to the cultivation of fruit trees)
- Fürstenberg Gardens.

- Petrin Hill
A green island in the heart of Prague. Part of it is an orchard, the rest wooded. A funicular railway leads to the top where the Observatory tower stands (a miniature replica of the Eiffel Tower).

Karlstejn (40 km from Prague)
What to see:
- Mediaeval castle built by Charles IV (1348) to house the crown jewels and state papers.
- Holy Cross Chapel – a unique collection of Gothic paintings by Theodorik (1360)

Terezin (60 km from Prague)
Small town beside which Joseph II had a military fortress built in the 18th century. These fortifications were converted into a prison and ghetto, then into a concentration camp during the Second World War.
What to see:
- Small fortress and national cemetery
- Ghetto museum
- Russian and Jewish cemeteries and crematorium
- Columbarium with part of the fortifications,

Cesky Krumlov
A small mediaeval town with a mediaeval character in southern Bohemia.
What to see:
- Renaissance castle
- Rococo theatre
- Monastery of the Little Brothers and the Convent of the Poor Clares

Karlovy Vary (160 km from Prague)
A spa town famous for the manufacture of glass, Moser porcelain and Becherovka liqueur. Its waters were used by Goethe, Schiller, Beethoven, Chopin, Liszt, Paganini, Peter the Great and Bach.

Konopiste (50 km from Prague)
Konopiste was the hunting lodge of the Austrian imperial family. Built in the 14th century, it was renovated in 1887 by Franz Ferdinand of Este.
What to see: unique collections of historic weapons, furniture, paintings and tapestries.

Hluboka
19th century castle in the same style as Windsor Castle with collections of paintings, porcelain, glass and weapons.

Ceske Budejovice
A former royal city founded in the 13th century, world famous for Budweiser beer
What to see:
- City Hall (Renaissance and Baroque style)
- Dominican Monastery (1265)
- Budvar brewery (the beer has been brewed here since 1894).

Food & Drink

Festivals, Traditional customs

Czech dishes are substantial and influenced by German, Austrian, Polish and Hungarian food.

Starters

Hovezi polevka s jatrovymi knedlicky: liver balls and beef bouillon
Prazska sunka: Prague ham
Husi´ ja´tra na cibulce: goose liver with onions.
Ceska bramborova: the national soup made with potatoes, mushrooms and carrots
Zelnacka: cabbage and bacon soup

Main Dishes

Svickova na smetane: roast beef with a creamed vegetable sauce
Pecena kachna s knedliky a zelim: grilled duck with knedliky and sauerkraut.
Veprovy rizek: pork escalope coated in breadcrumbs, often served with boiled potatoes Veprova s knedliky a Se zelim: roast pork with dumplings and sauerkraut
Smazeny karbanatek: dish with cubed meat, onions and paprika sauce
Smazeny kapr s bramborovym salatem: breadcrumb coated carp with potato salad
Knedlo-zelo-vepro: bread dumplings, sauerkraut and roast pork

Side dishes

Knedliky: wheat flour boiled dumplings
Bramboraky: fried potato cakes, flavoured with marjoram, often served with sauerkraut and smoked pork.

Cheeses

Smazeny syr: hot cheese coated in breadcrumbs
Olomoucke Syrecky or Olomoucke Tvaruzky: cheese served with cumin, finely chopped raw onion and mustard.

Desserts

Ovocne knedliky: fruit dumplings served with sugar, butter and poppy seed
Jablecny strudl (strudel): apple strudel
Livance: small pancakes served with jam and soft cream cheese or whipped cream.
Kolace: fruit and poppy seed tarts

Drinks

Coffee (Turecka kava): The Turkish coffee most commonly served in restaurants and cafés.

Beers (pivos): Among the world’s best and very cheap: Pilsener, Budweiser, Smichov, Regent de Trebon, etc.

Wines:
White wine: Bila´ Ludmila
Red wine: Frankovka (a fruity red)
“Local champagne”: Bohemia sekt Tonic

Spirits:
Slivovitch (plum brandy)
Borovicka and Becherovka (plant based liqueurs).

- Easter Monday: celebration of Spring (men whip women on the legs with willow sticks and the women give them hand-painted eggs).

- Witches’ Pyre: brooms are burned to keep away evil spirits and fires lit to celebrate the end of winter.

- Majales: a Springtime festival dating from the early 19th century, banned by the Nazis and then by the Communists and recently re-established. This festival includes a parade of students in fancy dress following a float carrying the Majales king. The celebrations continue all night long, there are concerts and plays while the audience enjoys sausages and beer.

FESTIVALS - Programme see Festivals Highlights

- Prague Spring - Mezinarodni hudebni festival Prazské jaro (may) : first held in 1948, this is the city’s most prestigious cultural event

- Prazsky podzim - Prague Autumn Festival (sept – oct) : Numerous concerts of international standard

- Musica Sacra Praga (april - oct) : festival of sacred music.

- Saint Wenceslas Festival of Sacred Arts: (sept) music, painting, sculpture.

- Musica Iudica (oct/nov) : festival of Jewish music.

Things to Do

Hotels

Restaurants

Bedrich Smetana Museum
Museum dedicated to the composer symbol of the Czech Republic.

Antonin Dvorák Museum
Museum dedicated to Antonin Dvorák

Bertramka: Mozart and Duseks Museum
Dusek old Country house, Mozart composed there parts of Don Giovanni. Besides being a museum concerts are also often held at the villa in the summer.

The National Gallery
Permanent Exhibition of the 19th to 20th century European art collection of the Czech government.

The Museum of Military Resistance
The resistance movement in Czechoslovakia during World War II.

The Museum of the City of Prague
The history of Prague from its founding in the 9th century up to the Gothic, Renaissance, and Romanesque periods.

National Jewish Museum
Some of the oldest religious objects in Europe ended up in Prague, and are now a part of the collection. The first place to visit is the Old Jewish Cemetery, then 4 synagogues can be seen.

The Historical Museum
Many treasures from the Czech Republic, which will give you great insight into the history of the country

Museum of Decorative Arts
This museum was founded in 1885, and contains fine examples of decoration art

HOTEL ADRIA 4 *
Vaclavske namesti 26 – Tel : 420 221 081 111
/www.hoteladria.cz
Nice building in the centre of Prague.

HOTEL ASTORIA 4*
Rybna 10 - www.prague-hotel.org/astoria
In the hearth of the old city, in a quiet street near Namesti Republiky.

HOTEL SAVOY 5*
Keplerova 6 – Tel : 420 224 302 430
www.hotel-savoy.cz
Beautiful Hotel near the Castle.

HOTEL ESPLANADE 5*
Washingtonova 1600/19 - Tel : 420 224 501 172
www.esplanade.cz
Built in 1927, this Art Nouveau building is located in from of the Narodní Divadlo.

HOTEL RADISSON SAS ALCRON 5*
Stepanska 40 – Tel: 420 222 820 000
www.radissonsas.com
Art Nouveau Hotel in the centre of Prague, built in 1930.

- Czech specialities

HOSTINEC U KALICHA
Na Bojisti 12-14 - www.ukalicha.cz
One of the most popular restaurant in Prague. Live Music during the diner.

U KRKAVCU
Dlouha 25 - Tel : 24 81 72 64
www.gastroinfo.cz/u-krkavcu
Located in a vaulted roman cellar from the XIIIth century. Czech specialities.

COSSE KRIDLEM
Narodni 10 - Tel : 24 91 23 77
Czech specialities.

CLUB RESTAURANT 4*
Panska 12, 11121 - Tel : 24 09 31 11 www.palacehotel.cz/standard_e/restaurant.html
An evening in the Gourmet Club Restaurant is pampering at its highest level. Sitting amid the historic grandeur listening to the gentle serenade of melodic piano music.

RUSSIAN SAMOVAR 4*
Dittrichova 25 - Tel: 29 90 11 09 32 – www.samovar.cz
Russian specialities, service in national costumes, with russian band, 45 kinds of vodka.