Budapest, city of the month

Budapest and music

Venues & Orchestras

History

It was at the end of the 17th century, after having shaken off Turkish influence, that Hungary’s national music developed.
In the 17th and 18th centuries, the courts often had their own opera and theatre companies which employed foreign musicians. The most well-known example of this is the Austrian composer Joseph Haydn who worked in the court of Prince Esterházy for thirty years. While folk music continued its development, the 19th century saw the emergence of Hungarian opera with Ferenc Erkel (who was also the composer of the Hungarian national anthem). In spite of German influence, figures such as Ruzitska, Doppler and Mosonyi stand out. But the most famous Hungarian composer remains Franz Liszt, whose exceptional virtuosity was celebrated throughout Europe. But Liszt never forgot his homeland which is reflected in a considerable part of his work from his Marches to the Hungarian Rhapsodies. Bela Bartók and Zoltán Kodály, by drawing their inspiration from Hungarian folk traditions, attained international fame. In our own times, leading Hungarian figures of contemporary music are György Ligeti (exiled in 1956 and becoming an Austrian citizen), György Kurtag (naturalised in 1948), Peter Eötvös to whom, with Three Sisters, we owe one of the last great operatic successes of the 20th century…
Music has always held a special importance in this country which has many concert halls and classical or folk orchestras...

Hungarian State Opera House (Magyar Állami Operaház)
Built in 1884, by the architect Miklós Ybl on the plans of the Staatsoper of Vienna, it was the most modern European theatre of its time. For the first time in the world, the wooden stage machinery from the Baroque era was replaced by a metal system operated by hydraulic power. The building was inaugurated in the presence of Franz Joseph with the works of Erkel. It has been directed by the greatest conductors such as Gustav Mahler and Arthur Nikisch, but also Massenet, Delibes or Puccini who came here to perform their operas.
In 1984, one hundred years after it first opened, the fully renovated State Opera House reopened its doors. With a strong company, first-class operas and ballets are performed here.

Erkel Szinhaz Theatre
This highly regarded theatre puts on first-rate ballet performances and operas.

Thália Theatre
The venue for Budapest’s Spring and Autumn Festivals and the Provincial Theatres event, etc.

Budapest Operetta Theatre
Budapest is, with Vienna, the capital of operetta.

Hungarian National Philharmonic Orchestra & Choir
The national philharmonic orchestra, founded in 1923, soon became one of the pillars of Hungary’s musical life. After the war, Ferenc Fricsay and László Somogyi were the leading conductors and Otto Klemperer and Antál Doráti were regular guests.
From the 1950s onwards, the orchestra had great success abroad. János Ferencsik brought a new dimension to the orchestra by inviting top conductors (Ernest Ansermet, Lorin Maazel, Leopold Stokowski, Claudio Abbado, Christoph von Dohnányi…) and hosting leading soloists. Increasing numbers of concerts of contemporary music are being put on under the influence of Peter Eötvös (permanent guest). Zoltán Kocsis, an eminent figure in Hungarian musical life, was appointed musical director in 1997.
The role of the orchestra, which includes some of Hungary’s most rigorous musicians (many of them are members of famous chamber orchestras), is to promote Hungarian and international symphonies, oratorios and chamber music. It also has contemporary music on the programme (particularly by Hungarian composers), and offers the best musicians opportunities to play solos.

Franz Liszt Chamber Orchestra of Budapest
The orchestra, which is made up of 17 stringed instruments and a harpsichord, adopted its name in homage to the great composer in spite of the fact that he did not compose works for strings.
Since its beginnings in 1963, it has particularly championed Hungarian music. It has played with partners of great renown such as Martha Argerich, Isaac Oistrakh, Jean-Pierre Rampal, Sir Yehudi Menuhin or Isaac Stern.

Budapest Festival Orchestra
Founded in 1983 by Ivan Fischer, conductor, and Zoltàn Kocsis, pianist. In 1992, it became a permanent orchestra in Budapest and one of the best and most popular in Hungary, receiving invitations from all over the world.
Many top level performers made their names in it: Kurt Sanderling, Yehudi Menuhin, Gidon Kremer, Andràs Schiff, Eliahu Inbal, Agnès Baltsa, June Anderson, Ida Haendel, Martha Argerich... Sir Georg Solti was the orchestra’s honorary conductor until his sudden death.
The musical director, Ivan Fischer, was a pioneer in Hungary’s cultural endeavour. Many recordings have been made under his direction.

100 Gypsy Violins, The Budapest Gypsy Symphony Orchestra
This orchestra composed of violins, cellos, double basses, violas, dulcimers and wind instruments, embodies the soul of an entire people. Its programme intersperses the tradition of the Hungarian gypsy violin with great classical composers.

The site of Budapest has been inhabited since the Neolithic period.
In the 1st century, the Romans founded Aquincum to defend the new province of Pannonia from barbarian incursions. Later abandoned during the Slavonic invasions, the town was occupied by the Hungarians in the 10th century, but did not become royal capital until after the Mongol invasion of 1241. It then comprised three districts: the hill of Buda (on the right bank of the Danube), Obuda (in the north, on the site of Aquincum) and Pest (on the left bank).
Occupied by the Turks between 1526 and 1686, it returned to being the capital of the Hungarian kingdom under the Austrian domination of the Habsburgs. In 1848, patriots tried in vain to restore the country’s independence.
In 1867, following a compromise, the dual Austro-Hungarian monarchy was introduced. The three districts were unified in 1872 under the name of Budapest. Its administrative, commercial and industrial expansion came to an abrupt halt with the First World War. The Treaty of Trianon imposed the break-up of the country, which lost 60% of its territory to Austria, Slovakia, Yugoslavia, Romania and the Soviet Union.
In 1941, wishing to regain its lost territories, it allied itself with the Nazis and entered the war. Budapest, partly destroyed by the bombing, was liberated by the Soviet army.
The people’s Republic was established in 1948. The revolt of 1956 brought Imre Nagy to power. But the Russian tanks entered Budapest. The communist regime remained in place until 1989 with the first breach in the Iron Curtain with Austria and the official rehabilitation of Nagy.
A member of NATO, Hungary accepted, through a referendum with a very strong majority, accession to the European Union in April 2003.

Architecture

Some Highlights

Gardens & in the surrounding area

Budapest’s historic buildings bear witness to a great architectural diversity and an eventful past in which each period, from the Roman presence to the grandeur of the Austro-Hungarian empire, passing through the Ottoman influence, has enriched the city with an extraordinary atmosphere of mixed styles and eclecticism of great originality. The Danube, the circular boulevards and the Art Nouveau architecture are suggestive of a “little Vienna”.

Structure of the city
Budapest was formed by the joining of the towns of Buda (a residential area situated on the right bank of the Danube) and Pest (more commercial, situated on the left bank). These two towns are linked by seven bridges over the Danube. The Chain Bridge was the first to have linked the two sites permanently.
- Buda shows vestiges of the former Turkish occupation. The Royal Palace, which today houses a library and several museums, and the Matthias Church, are situated on the top of the plateau.
- Pest, the true heart of the city, spread across the plain. It is organised around a central hub, with dense housing, situated between the Danube and the “Small Boulevards”. Here stand the Gothic-Revival Houses of Parliament designed by architect Imre Steindl (1896), the Academy of Sciences, the Palace of Justice, the Eötvös Loránd University (1635), many museums as well as the chief ministries, the banks and the major shopping streets. Here too we find the old Jewish quarter and the Vajdahunyad (a castle representing all the architectural styles of the country), built in 1896 during the festivities celebrating Hungary’s millennium.

Architectural styles
- Baroque (St. Anne Church)
- Neo-classical (Chain Bridge, Keleti Station, Museum of Fine Arts)
- Romantic (Pest Redoubt)
- Ostentatious (New York Palace)
- Historicism ( Heroes’ Square)
- Late Baroque (Royal Palace)
- Art Nouveau (Museum of Decorative Arts, Nyugati Station built by Eiffel, Freedom Bridge, Post Office Savings Bank, Zoo)
- Gothic Revival (Houses of Parliament)
- Post-war Modernism and Socialist Realism

BUILDINGS AND MONUMENTS

Matthias Church
The church dating from the 13th century in which the Empress Elizabeth (Sissi) was crowned Queen of Hungary. For this event, Liszt composed a Coronation Mass which he conducted himself. This church has a Turkish-style interior. Many classical concerts are performed there to make the most of its splendid acoustics.

Royal Palace
Bombed during the Second World War then renovated, it houses 3 museums including the National Gallery, with collections of Gothic sculptures and Hungarian modern art.

Fishermen’s Bastion
A Neo-Romanesque symbolic monument built in homage to the fishermen put in charge of defending the ramparts in the middle ages. This building is crowned with seven turrets representing the seven Magyar tribes that conquered the country. From this square the view over Pest, the river and Margaret Island is very impressive.

Uri Utca
Street of the nobles (former street of the lords) with superb Baroque mansions.

Gellért Hill
This hill, 235 m high, forms a large park in the middle of the city. At the top is a monument paying homage to the soldiers of the liberation and a citadel.

“Basilica” Cathedral
The capital’s biggest church, designed in a Neo-Renaissance style. The relic of the first king of Hungary lies in the basilica’s St. Leopold chapel.

Belvárosi Templom:
The oldest church in Hungary (12th century)

Houses of Parliament
Both the seat of the presidency and of parliament, the building’s construction began in 1885 and it remains one of the city’s symbols.

Chain Bridge
The first permanent bridge linking Buda and Pest takes its name of Széchenyi Chain Bridge, from Count István Széchenyi, an important figure in the patriotic and independence movement who, unable to cross the frozen river in order to attend the burial of his father, was obliged to wait several days. It is one of the longest suspension bridges in Europe.

Millennium Monument
This was erected on the occasion of the millennium (1896) of the Hungarian conquest. In the centre stands the statue of the archangel Gabriel with eminent figures from Hungary’s history depicted around it.

Liszt Ferenc Musical Academy
This monumental and richly ornamented building is one of Budapest’s great centres for classical and contemporary music.

Old Jewish quarter in Pest
Worth seeing:
- The biggest Byzantine-Moorish style synagogue in Europe built on the site of the house of Theodor Herzl, founder of the Zionist movement.
- St. Stephen’s Park (memorial to the victims of the Second World War).

GARDENS

Margaret Island
In the heart of the city, this is one of Budapest’s most beautiful parks (with a sports complex, swimming pool, spas, garden with roses and fountains). Inhabited since Roman times, it is named after the daughter of King Béla IV, who was forced by her father into a religious life from the age of 9 until her death.

Statue Park
Rather than destroy all the statues of Communist leaders, the Hungarians had the idea of taking them down and installing them in this park a little away from the centre.

City Park or Városliget
Situated to the east of the city, it contains, among other things, Hosök Ter (Heroes’ Square), the Zoo, amusement parks, the Széchenyi baths and Vajdahunyad Castle whose lake is transformed into a skating rink in winter.

The Baths
This long tradition dating from the Roman period is still alive. Roman, Turkish or Viennese, picturesque or highly luxurious, the city boasts over a hundred establishments. Among them, the Széchenyi Baths (www.spasbudapest.hu), is one of the most impressive spa complexes in Europe.

AROUND

SZENTENDRE www.szentendre.hu
An old Serbian mercantile town with winding streets and houses painted in bright colours also known as the “Town of Artists”. The Hungarian painter Károly Ferenczy painted most of his works here. Worth seeing:
- Károly Ferenczy Museum with displays of historical, archaeological and ethnographic collections, as well as paintings.
- Serbian Museum for Ecclesiastical History.
- Numerous exhibitions, notably exhibitions of ceramics by Margit Kovács.

VISEGRÁD www.visegrad.hu
Former royal fortress dug up and restored in the 15th century and today a tourist centre. Worth seeing:
- King Matthias Museum with many archaeological finds on display.

ESZTERGOM www.esztergom.hu
Originally a Roman command post, it became in the 12th and 13th centuries the residence of the Magyar kings. Worth seeing:
- Cathedral
- Museum of the Fortress of Esztergom
- Christian Museum of Esztergom (with Hungary’s finest art collections)

GODOLLO www.godollo.hu
Worth seeing:
- Castle, the residence of Franz Joseph and "Sissi"
- Gödöllo Park built in homage to Sissi in 1898 following her death.
- Statue of Queen Elizabeth, by the sculptor József Róna (1901)

Food

Drink

Traditional customs and Festivals

STARTERS
Gulyas - goulash (the national dish, a thick beef soup with onions, paprika, potatoes and pasta)

MAIN DISHES
- Pörkölt (diced pork or beef)
- Chicken with paprika (paprika is a characteristic feature of Hungarian food)
- Stuffed cabbage

DESSERTS
- Strudels filled with fruits, with fromage frais or poppy seeds
- Kremés, millefeuilles with vanilla cream
- Palacsinta (filled Hungarian pancakes)
- Somloï Galushka: a biscuit topped with chocolate and coated with vanilla and Chantilly cream.

DRINKS

Wines
Hungary is famous for the quality and variety of its wines, some of which are recognised worldwide:
Red wine: Egri Bikavér (the “bull’s blood” of Eger), Kadarka grape variety
Dessert wines: Tokay (in two forms: Aszú and Szamorodni)
Dry white wine: Egri Leanyka

Brandies (Palinka)
- Barackpálinka (made from Kecskemet apricots), alma (apple brandy) and cseresznye (cherry brandy)
- Unicum: a bitter drink prepared from 40 different plants

Beer
There is a great variety of Hungarian beers including the famous Dreher

Coffee
The “black water” made its appearance in Buda in 1579. Initially the drink of intellectuals and important figures, it soon became widespread among the population. The first cafés opened their doors in the middle of the 17th century and soon became the capital’s most important institution. Budapest was elected “city of cafés” in 2003.

The history and geographical situation of Hungary have forged a people with a unique wealth, whose language is unlike any other, whether Latin, Slavonic or Semitic.

Folklore
Hungarians love “great music” but they also love popular music, which means it is possible to enjoy many folk groups (music and dance) and above all many Hungarian gypsy groups and Klezmer music.

Public holidays
15 March: national holiday (anniversary of the revolution of 1848).
20 August: St. Stephen’s Day (fireworks).
23 October: anniversary of the insurrection of 1956.

Festivals

Spring Festival (March)
The country’s biggest event combining all kinds of cultural activities over two weeks: shows, conferences and local and international exhibitions. Performances are given by Hungarian and foreign artistes of international standing.

Film Festival (February)
During which previews of new Hungarian films are shown.

Street Festival (last week in June)
This festival celebrates the departure of the Soviet troops in 1991.

Summer Opera and Ballet Festival (beginning of August)
This attractive festival which takes place at the Hungarian National Opera House presents great singers and bel canto singers as well as national and international dancers.

Things to Do

Hotels

Restaurants

Museum of Music History
www.museum.hu/budapest/zenetorteneti
By safekeeping the heritage of Béla Bartók and of the collection of folk music and dances, the Museum fills a dual scientific and public education role. In addition to a collection of musical instruments, it contains many works of fine art related to music.

Liszt Ferenc Memorial Museum
www.lisztmuseum.hu
The museum bearing his name and the concert hall which formerly belonged to the composer are sited in the place where he lived. The building houses the Liszt Ferenc Research Centre and the Music History Research Library.

Bartók Museum
www.bartokmuseum.hu
The Hungarian composer lived in this house from 1932 to 1940, before emigrating to the United States. The first floor is occupied by a small concert hall. The second floor recounts the life of Bartók and has on display objects from his career as a musician: his piano, the furniture made for him, his pen holder with 5 pens for drawing staves, recordings….

Budapest History Museum
www.btm.hu
This museum castle reflects the 2000 years of the capital’s history. In the summer it is possible to wander through the medieval gardens and visit the walls of the castle and the Massue Tower which affords a panoramic view over the city. Worth seeing:
- permanent exhibitions allowing you to study the famous Gothic statues
- silk tapestry

Ernst Museum - Dorottya Gallery
www.ernstmuzeum.hu
Puts on exhibitions with the aim of showing Hungary’s wealth of modern architecture and art as well as works and collections little known until now.

Museum of Contemporary Art - Ludwig Collection
www.ludwigmuseum.hu
This Museum of international art of the last three decades is dedicated to bringing contemporary art to a wide public through the organisation of varied programmes

Hungarian National Museum 'Nemzeti Muzeum'
Through its exhibitions, the museum presents the history of Hungary from the foundation of the Hungarian state until the withdrawal of Russian troops in 1993

National Gallery
www.mng.hu
Houses the country’s biggest public collection, illustrating and documenting the genesis and evolution of fine arts in Hungary from the 11th century to the present day.

Museum of Fine Arts
www.szepmuveszeti.hu
This museum, one of the most significant in Europe, houses works reflecting the evolution of world art from antiquity until the present day (permanent and temporary exhibitions)

Kempinski Hotel Corvinus 5*
Erzsébet tér 7-8
Tel 36 1 429 3777 - Fax 36 1 429 4777
Reservations.corvinus@kempinski.com
www.kempinski-budapest.com
Modern and luxurious the Kempinski Hotel Corvinus is right in the heart of Budapest's pedestrian shopping and financial district. Designed by József Finta it is a landmark hotel.
365 elegantly designed rooms and suites have been completely renovate in Spring 2003. The hotel has a fitness club, Boutiques, Beauty Parlour, Hair Salon, Laundry, Dry-cleaning, 24-hour Room Service and a garage.
Three Restaurants propose Hungarian, Italian, Bavarian and international cuisine. The Corvinus Bar serves cocktails to live piano accompaniment.
While the Lobby Lounge serves up tea and the ubiquitous Corvinus cake.

Radisson SAS Beke Hotel 4*
www.radissonsas.com
A luxury hotel located in the centre, in the shopping and financial district. Art nouveau style hotel which combines old world charm with modern comfort and facilities.

Inter-continental Budapest 5*
www.budapest.intercontinental.com
A luxury hotel close to the Chain Bridge on the Pest side

Le Méridien 5*
www.lemeridien.com
A luxury hotel located right in the heart of the city on Erzsebet Square

Art’otel 4*
www.budapest.the-hotels.com/artotel-budapest.htm
On the Buda side, on the banks of the Danube opposite the Houses of Parliament, this town house is made up of four fully restored 18th century Baroque houses

Gundel (*****)
www.gundel.hu
A restaurant famous throughout Europe for its top-class cuisine. Worth sampling: the traditional Hungarian dishes, the revived traditions of aristocratic cuisine from the Middle Ages and specialities from all over the world. Gypsy music in the evenings.

Margitkert (****)
Margit u, 15 Budapest II - Tel : 135-4791
This inn, several hundred years old, has excellent specialities (cabbages with meat, mushrooms stuffed with sheep’s cheese…). It is popular for its music. Three orchestras entertain at mealtimes. On the walls are photos of illustrious guests.

Szazeves
V. Pesti Barnabás u. 2 - Tel : 266 52 40
Housed in an 18th century Rococo palace, this restaurant serves delicious good plain Hungarian home cooking: sauce-based dishes, game in season. Meals are accompanied by gypsy musicians.

Muveszinas
Bajcsy-Zsilinszky ut, 9
This restaurant with the décor of a library serves classics of local gastronomy. On the menu: escalopes in sauce or filet mignon with asparagus, potato croquettes.