City of the month

Berlin

History

Architecture

Berlin has never ceased to be a “capital”. Shop window for both blocs during the Cold War, today it is once more the seat of Parliament and government ministries. Berliners claim to belong to Germany but their history is undeniably unique. Urban development and green spaces are intermingled in a veritable ‘kaleidoscope’. “Losing” yourself in Berlin is an invitation to travel through the maze of European History.

Berlin and Music :
During the 17th and 18th centuries Berlin, like the rest of Europe devoted itself to Italian opera, especially at the Hofoper (court opera); but it was not until the 19th century that German opera reached its height spurred on by artists like Spontini, Meyerbeer and others and above all because of the success of Weber’s Freischütz. The Italian influence is still present in Berlin at the Königstädter Theater and the Victoria Theater. But it is at the Königliche Oper (Royal Opera) that the German repertory became established and was to play a central role in the life of international opera, particularly under the direction of Richard Strauss who ran the institution from 1912 until 1918.
The Königliche Oper, renamed Staatsoper in 1919, stands on the magnificent Unter den Linden boulevard. The architecture of the building is Palladian inspired and the interior (under the influence of Friedrich II) is in the rococo style. Destroyed by fire in 1843, then for a second time by bombing during the Second World War, it has been rebuilt as an identical copy. Incorporated into the former German Democratic Republic, the Opera was subject to socialist planning which deprived West Berlin of a prestigious opera house.
In 1961, the same year as the construction of the “wall of shame”, the Deutsche Oper Berlin was built in West Berlin. Its modern architecture, high quality and often avant-garde programme differentiated it from its rival in the East.
Constructed in 1892, the Komische Oper Berlin, like the Staatsoper, stands on Unter den Linden. Its neo-classical architecture was spared by the bombing. Initially it offered a “Cabaret-Opera” style programme influenced by Jacques Offenbach. In the 1920s, the Komische Oper adopted a distinctive Berlin style thanks to Kurt Weill and Bertold Brecht.
The Berliner Philharmonisches Orchester was founded in 1882. This world famous orchestra has been led by conductors as distinguished as Richard Strauss, Herbert von Karajan and Claudio Abbado. Today, renamed Berliner Philharmoniker, it is still under Simon Rattle, one of the world’s top orchestras.
The Philharmonie, shaped like a tent of ink and gold, is the Orchestra’s concert hall. It was constructed in the Tiergarten in 1987. Its revolutionary design places the music “in the middle” of the audience on a central stage.

Berlin seen by Kurt Weill (1906-1950): the Roaring Twenties, grandeur and decadence...
The 1920s present a picture of a tremendously lively German opera. Kurt Weill and Bertolt Brecht adapted an old script by the English playwright John Gay, The Beggar’s Opera, with music by Pepusch, from which they created the famous “Threepenny Opera” (Die Dreigroschenoper, 1928).
It was a huge success. While many opera composers did not manage to rid themselves of the weighty heritage of romanticism, Kurt Weill took a new direction, drawing on popular music, cabaret and jazz. The very theme of the opera was an innovation, bringing social satire to the stage in its virulent accusation against the greed of capitalism. Hitler brought a sudden end to the artistic euphoria of these years and to the fruitful collaboration between Kurt Weill and Bertold Brecht. The composer was to emigrate first to Europe, then to the United States where he wrote musicals.
A product of the European world of academic music, nevertheless Kurt Weill made an enormous contribution to opera in the Old World and musical theatre in the New World.

Other institutions : Konzerthaus Berlin, Deutsches Symphonie-Orchester,
Rundfunk-Sinfonieorchester.... See Calendar.

Berlin is a fairly recent city whose origins dating back to the 13th century remain uncertain.
Documents mention Berlin and Cölln, two neighbouring Slav towns.

In the 15th century, Friedrich II, king of Prussia, established the court in Berlin.
In the early 18th century the communes of Berlin, Cölln, Friedrichswerder, Dorotheenstadt and Friedrichstadt merged.
In 1862, Bismarck chose Berlin as his place of residence; the German Empire was proclaimed on January 18th 1871. Berlin took the central role as Germany’s capital.

After 1920, with the absorption of seven towns and fifty-nine villages in the surrounding area, came the birth of “Greater Berlin”.
The small historic town became a large industrial city with 4 million inhabitants.
The economic depression of the nineteen thirties left a significant mark on Berlin culture: from Bauhaus to the “pessimistic” arts (expressionism, the caricatures of George Grosz, die Brücke, etc.), followed by the monumental style of Albert Speer which accompanied the advent of the Third Reich.
Focal point of the Second World War, Berlin is also the site of the failed peace and division that preceded the Cold War.
In January 1961, the construction of the ‘wall of shame’ sealed the division between the world’s two great ideologies, the physical manifestation and symbol of a war of ideas. It was not until 1989 and the fall of the Berlin Wall that Germany was once more united.

The curtain could then be opened on this city that has always been at the heart of German History, but which, because of it heterogeneity, also remains a metropolis on the margin.

Berlin is a mixture of Gothic, “Soviet brutalism”, Baroque, Rococo and contemporary style (Renzo Piano was given the commission to modernize Potsdamer Platz).
The 365 metre high television tower dominates the gigantic and almost inhuman Alexander Platz, a symbol of the former Socialist power.

Some Highlights :

In the surrounding area :

- Schloss Charlottenburg, constructed in 1695, is a perfect example of the Prussian baroque rococo architecture of Karl Friedrich Schinkel (especially the gilded gallery). Summer residence of the Great Electors of Brandenburg, the castle was bombed in 1943 and completely rebuilt.
- South of Berlin, the Peacock Island Schloss was designed as a love nest for Wilhelm II. Constructed entirely of wood, it overlooks a magnificent garden, where there is even a “Tahitian cabin”.
- Museuminsel : the island of Museums on the River Spree, an architectural gem, is one of Berlin’s oldest museum complexes. The Altes Museum (a Schinkel masterpiece) has eighteen Ionic columns on the façade. It houses temporary exhibitions. The Pergamonmuseum contains works from Classical Antiquity, the Near East and the East including the colossal Pergamum Altar and the Ishtar Gate. The Islamic Museum, in the south wing, exhibits, amongst others, the façade of the Mshatta Palace (from present day Jordan).
- The famous Brandenburg Gate, constructed in 1791 at the eastern end of the Tiergarten, is a neo-classical triumphal arch. The history of Berlin and its inhabitants is closely linked to this monument. In 1806, Napoleon and his army passed through it. After 1933, the gate was an assembly point for Nazi torchlit marches. With the Cold War and construction of the Berlin Wall, it was taken into the Eastern sector.
- Berlin is well endowed with green spaces: the Tiergarten is the vast garden in the centre of Berlin, dotted with ancient and modern sculptures. The Grünewald forest is also a large natural and cultural area.
- Two lakes are an attractive feature of the “city”, the Müggelsee, bordered by a huge fine sandy beach, and the Wannsee delight summer bathers.

Berlin’s districts :
- Situated North-West of the Tiergarten, Hansaviertel is an elegant residential district rebuilt following an international competition in 1957 by architects such as the founder of the Bauhaus movement, Walter Gropius, the Finnish architect, Alvar Aalto, and the Brazilian architect, Oscar Niemeyer.
- Karl-Marx-Allee : the prestigious ceremonial avenue of the G.D.R., formerly Stalin-Allee is a broad, imposing thoroughfare, whose façades are in the Bauhaus style. Listed by Unesco as a world heritage historic monument.

- The city of Potsdam is only 30km from the centre of Berlin. Easily reached by metro, it is the site of an 18th century royal residence. In the old town, above all see Yorckstrasse and further north, the Dutch quarter built between 1732 and 1742 on the order of Friedrich Wilhelm I.

- The Schloss Sans-Souci stands west of the city in a vast landscaped garden. Frederick the Great’s summer palace, it was built in 1745, as an escape from the bustle of Berlin where he could live "sans souci" [without a care]. Don’t miss the Konzertsaal and bedchambers of the Damenflügel (women’s wing).

- Burg/Spreewald : Spreewald farms surrounded by small canals.

- Werder : a small, island town well worth a visit.

- Buckow : a small spa town in a valley with traditional houses. House and museum of Brecht and his partner Hélène Weigel.

- Jüterborg : a small mediaeval town whose defensive towers still stand.

A writer tells the story of Brandenburg :

Theodor Fontane (1819-1898) is still famous for his romantic descriptions of the countryside and marshes of Brandenburg. One of his works, the novel Walks across the Brandenburg March may inspire the traveller.

Travel by river: a choice of two for Berlin, the Spree and the Oder.

- Oder : its many branches wind their way through nature reserves and protected marshes; this is Germany’s “greenest” river.

- Spree : it weaves a real network of waterways hence its nickname, “the Venice of Brandenburg”.
Along its route there are numerous grand houses and island farms, some of which are on the world heritage list.

See German National Tourist Office : www.germany-tourism.de

Food & Drink

Traditional customs

Brandenburg food :

Traditional starters :
- Hackpeter, a German version of steak tartare.
- Soleier, eggs marinated in brine, then shelled and seasoned with salt, pepper, paprika, vinegar and oil. They are usually eaten with the traditional Berlin mustard – Mostrich.

Main courses :
- Pork is used in numerous dishes: Kasseler Rippen (smoked pork chops) and Eisbein mit Sauerkraut und Erbsenpüree, shin of pork served on green pea purée with sauerkraut.
- Currywurst (spicy sausage with curry sauce), another Berlin classic, is served on every street corner from the little Imbiss (fast food stalls).
- Meatballs too appear on every menu, as do roast chicken, Schnitzel, Sauerbraten (marinated beef) and Matjes (marinated herring).
- Fish comes from Havel. Try specialities like Havelaal grün, eel with dill, pike with Salzkartoffeln – plain, but delicious, boiled potatoes.
- Potatoes are often on the menu, a favourite dish is Kartoffelpuffer, a crisp potato pancake served with Apfelmus (apple purée).
- Desserts, top of the list is Rote Grütze (stewed raspberries, cherries and blackcurrants). Otherwise, Berliners love thick slices of Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte or Black Forest gateau.

- Other favourites : zander from the Havel, Teltow turnips, gherkins from the Spree forest, fruit from Werder, game from the forests of the Schorfheide...

Beers to enjoy :

- «Summer Solstice» : a reliable Berlin wheat beer, it is based loosely on Berliner Weisse. This lager style beer is slightly tinted by the fruit macerated in it: strawberries, raspberries or blueberries, depending on the time of year.

- «Amber Nativity» : Dunkel Weizen. An amber coloured German wheat beer, full flavoured, slightly sweet, balanced by a hint of acidity.

- Pils, light and very dry.

- Bock, dark and rich.

- Berliner Weisse, a very light-coloured beer with a squirt of raspberry syrup (mit Rot) or Waldmeister (a plant based liqueur). It is served in a champagne glass.

Try these :

- Werder wine, light (but the best German wines are still the Rieslings from the Rhine Valley)..

- Bad Liebenwerda water.

Berlin :
- Mozart Festpiele - January See Calendar
- Berlin International Film Festival - February
- Theatertreffen -May
- MaerzMusik - Festival of Contemporary music - March
- The Berlin Open Air Classic in the Gendarmenmarkt district – July See"Highlights"
- Acrobats’ Festival – August 2nd
- Museum Night – August 31st
- Berliner Festwochen - Sept-Oct-Nov See Calendar
- Jazz Fest - Nov
- Christmas Markets - Déc

Details :www.berlin-tourism.de,
tel : 49 30 1805 75 40 40

Brandeburg :
- Rheinsberg Opera Festival (June).
See www.brandenburg.de or www.Rheinsberg.de

- Potsdam Musical Summer usually in the open air...

Details about Brandenburg :
Tourismus Marketing Brandenburg GmbH,
Am neuen Markt 1, D-14473 Potsdam, 67.
Tel.: +49 331/29873-0, Fax: +49 331/29873-20.

Things to Do

Museums

- Berliner Chic-Mode von 1820-1990 : history of fashion in Berlin as a reflection of History: sketches, photographs and fashion shows or immersion in the successive moods of a city with a stormy past.
Museum Ephraim-Palais, Postrasse 16, Berlin-Mitte
tel: 24 00 20, www.stadtmuseum.de
- Story of Berlin : History of Berlin since it was founded in 1237, a fascinating multi-media visit.
Ku’damm Karree Kürfstendamm 207-208, Berlin-Charlottenburg - tel: 827 20 100, www.story-of-berlin.de
- Jüdische Museum : Jewish museum, 2000 years of the History of German Jews, their contribution to German culture with examples centring on daily life. Worth noting is the amazing architecture of the museum building.
Lindenstr. 9-14, Berlin-Kreuzberg - tel: 25 99 33 00, www.jmberlin.de
- Mittelalterliche Kunst : museum of mediaeval art.
Kunstgewerbemuseum, Kulturforum Matthaïkirchplatz, Berlin-Tiergarten - tel: 20 90 55 55
- Bauhaus-Archiv Berlin. Every stage of the Bauhaus movement.
Klingelhöferstrasse 14, Berlin-Tiergarten - tel: 254 00 20, www.bauhaus.de
- Filmmuseum : history of German film.
Postdamer 2, Berlin-Tiergarten - tel: 300 903 0, www.filmmuseum-berlin.de

Hotels :

Near the Staatsoper and the Komische Oper :
- Adlon Hôtel (5*), 336 bedrooms. A legendary address in the 1920s, view of Brandenburg Gate.
Unter den Linden 77, 10117 Berlin-Mitte.
Tel : +49-30 22 61 11 11.
- The Regent (5*), 204 bedrooms. Luxurious and traditional.
Charlottenstrasse 49, 10117 Berlin-Mitte.
Tel : +49-30 203 38.
-The Westin Grand Berlin (5*), 358 bedrooms. More modern.
Friedrichstrasse 158-164, 10117 Berlin-Mitte.
Tel : +49-30 202 70.
- The Park Inn (3*), 1006 bedrooms, solid building of the Soviet era. Located on Alexanderplatz, it reflects the time when the two Germanies erected towers as symbols of power to annoy the neighbours.
Alexanderplatz, 10178 Berlin-Mitte.
Tel : +49-30 238 90.

Near the Deutsche Oper :
- Esplanade Hôtel (5*), 386 bedrooms. Designer hotel with a private boat on the Spree, overlooking the Tiergarten and the Brandenburg Gate.
Lützwufer 15, 10785 Berlin.
Tel : +49-302 54 78 0.
- Ritzcarlton Hôtel (5*), 54 bedrooms. This early 20th century mansion was the Emperor’s favourite residence. Purchased first by the Reich then by a private buyer under the Federal Republic, it has one suite and a restaurant designed by Karl Lagerfeld.
Brahmstrasse 10, 14193 Berlin.
Tel : +49-30 89584-800.
- Hotel Palace Berlin (5*), a modern luxury hotel a stone’s throw from the Ku’damm.
Im Europa Center, 10789 Berlin .
Tel: +49-30 25 02-0

Restaurants :

- Currywurst Ku’damm 195 :Traditional Berlin tavern serving any kind of spicy sausage with curry.
Kurfürstendamm 195, Tel : +49-30 8 81 89 42.

- Restaurant Vau : Nouvelle cuisine. Duck, fish and roast meat in pastry, excellent wines.
Jägerstrasse 54/55, Tel : +49-30 2 02 97 30.

- Restaurants Schloss Glienicke Remise : Austrian regional specialities.
Königsträsse 36, Berlin-Zehlendorf, Tel : +49-30 8 05 40 00.

- Restaurant Juliette : Traditional dishes like calves’ liver and duck.
Jägerstrasse 39, Potsdam, Tel : +49-3 31 2 70 17 91.

- Restaurant Altes Zollhaus : Seasonal cooking and regional produce.
Carl-Herz-Ufer 30, Berlin-Kreuzberg, Tel : +49-30 6 92 33 00.