City of the month: Helsinki

Helsinki and music

Venues & Orchestras

History

The fatherland of Sibelius with its many amateur choirs can pride itself in having an exceptional culture and musical life.

Jean Sibelius (1865-1957)
Jean Sibelius showed a precocious talent as a violinist and composer.
During his studies in Berlin and Vienna, he devoted himself to chamber music, before taking an interest in the orchestra. Back in Helsinki, he began a career as a teacher and sought inspiration in Finnish culture (popular poetry and ancient sagas). The success of Kullervo (1892) brought him international fame. A new and more interior and personal inspiration began with his 2nd Symphony (1901). He composed several masterpieces including the Concerto for Violin and Voces intimae. His last creative period was characterised by clarity and spare grandeur, such as in his 7th Symphony (1924) and Tapiola (1926), perfect examples of the genius of Sibelius.

Opera
As was the practice in the 19th century, Sibelius composed his only opera in Swedish following the example of Kung Carls jakt (1852) by Pacius (often considered as the first Finnish opera). Finnish became established as an operatic language in 1899 with Pohjan Naiti by Merikanto, opening the way for composers such as Madetoja or Kokonen. Thanks today to the vibrancy of the inspiration of great composers such as Sallinen, Rautavaara and Kaija Saariaho, Finland has brought the world the finest operatic pieces of the new century.

Leading Lights
For a long time international stages have welcomed a galaxy of great Finnish singers such as Aino Ackté (premiere of Strauss’ Salomé in London) or the famous basses Martti Talvela and Matti Salminen. Soile Isokoski and Karita Mattila both belong to the small circle of stars who produce the finest evenings on the top stages.
Symphonic music is not to be outdone, with Paavo Berglund, the tremendous Esa-Pekka Salonen, who leads the Los Angeles Philharmonic but also Jukka-Pekka Saraste, Sakari Oramo at the City of Birmingham Symphony Orchestra and the young Mikko Frank, Artistic Director of the National Orchestra of Belgium.

Finnish National Opera
Although the building (which includes a main auditorium seating 1350 and the Almi Hall which seats approximately 500) was completed finally in 1993, operas have been staged in Helsinki for over 120 years.
The opera house has its own permanent orchestra and choir and also a ballet company. It puts on approximately 300 performances per season with a new Finnish opera premiered each year.
Three themes sustained the 2005/2006 season: France, Strauss and Mozart.
See also : www.operafin.fi

Helsinki Philharmonic Orchestra
It was in 1882 that Robert Kajanus founded Scandinavia’s first professional orchestra. Today directed by Leif Segerstam, the Helsinki Philharmonic is the great specialist in Sibelius, who has often conducted the orchestra. It is based in the Finlandia Hall, and regularly tours Europe and all over the world.

Finnish Radio Symphony Orchestra
Founded in 1927, a year after the national radio, the Finnish Radio Symphony Orchestra, today conducted by Sakari Oramo, does its fair share of contemporary premieres. The very first of its many recordings was made by Jean Sibelius himself.

Savonlinna Opera Festival
This opera festival, started in 1912, has become an internationally recognised festival thanks to the first-rate productions put on in the idyllic setting of the medieval castle with its lakes all around. An unforgettable atmosphere reigns at this festival which has made it an event not to be missed!
Each year it attracts 60,000 music lovers from all over the world who come to applaud the great repertoire and also Finnish operas. To add to its excellent programme, for the last ten years or so it has played host to foreign opera companies.
See also : www.operafestival.fi

Helsinki Festival
This is Finland’s biggest festival. A programme to suit every taste: classical and contemporary music, jazz, dance, theatre, exhibitions, cinema,…
There are many stages: around 30 venues (theatres, restaurants, churches...), Finnish and international performers. An event at which young musicians rub shoulders with great celebrities.
The Helsinki Festival is held from the end of August to the beginning of September.

Musica nova Helsinki
Established in 1981, this is one of the Europe’s best contemporary music festivals. It is held at the beginning of March and is always dedicated to the work of a living composer, such as in recent years Adès, Jarrell, Francesconi or Salonen.

Kuhmo Chamber Music Festival
One of the major festivals of chamber music in which the keyword is sharing. Top performers come together here in a unique mixture of culture based on music, in natural surroundings beside a lake.
The Kuhmo Chamber Music Festival is held in the last two weeks of July

Foundation
Finland, in 1550, was still a Swedish province. To compete with the city of Tallinn in Estonia, King Gustav Vasa of Sweden decided to found a port on the opposite bank of the Baltic sea: Helsinki was born.

Difficult beginnings
The provincial assembly met in Helsinki for the first time in 1616.
In 1640, suffering from its marshy environment, the city was rebuilt on its present site.
During the Great Northern War between 1713 and 1721, and again in 1742, Russian troops set fire to and occupied the city.

Helsinki becomes a capital
In 1809, Sweden had to cede the province of Finland to Russia and it became a Grand Duchy of the Empire. It kept its administrative autonomy and in 1812 the small military and trading port became the capital of the Grand Duchy. In 1827 a significant neoclassical architectural complex was built in which the country’s only university was established.

Capital of Finland
The independence of Finland was proclaimed in 1917, and Helsinki became the capital of the new republic.

Film shoots
During the cold war because of its resemblance to the former imperial capital St. Petersburg, Helsinki was often used as a location for shooting films, notably James Bond thrillers.

The “Winter War”
Without even having declared war on the country, Stalin invaded Finland on 30 November 1939. The capital was bombed during this conflict, known as the “Winter War”. It did not end until the signature of the Moscow Peace Treaty on 12 March 1940 in which Finland was forced to cede a large part of its territory.
In 1941, Finland took up the offensive again by allying itself with Germany.

The capital gains world importance
In 1952, Helsinki hosted the summer Olympic Games with great success in its Olympic stadium, one of the finest in the world.

1975: Helsinki Conference
Signed on 1 August 1975, the final act of the Conference on Security and Cooperation in Europe (CSCE) made provision for the inviolability of existing frontiers, developed economic trade and promoted the free circulation of ideas and people. Finland joined the European Union in 1995.

Architecture

Some Highlights

In the surrounding area

The mansion of the rich merchant Sederholm dates from 1757. It is the town’s only specimen of an 18th-century house built of wood and the prime example of an architectural style. This house is on Senate Square as is the Lutheran cathedral designed by Berlin-born architect Carl Ludwig Engel. It is the example of Neoclassical architecture from which all the buildings on the square took their inspiration.
But the dominant style in Helsinki is modern as can be seen in the districts of Katajanokka, Eira and Ullanlinna, where Art Nouveau prevails.
A very significant figure who has left a profound mark on the city’s architecture is Alvar Aalto (1898-1976) designer, among other buildings, of the Finlandia-talo or Finlandia Hall. His art combines Neoclassicism with turn-of-the-century Scandinavian Romanticism. He later turned towards Cubism and the Classicism of Ancient Greece. His example has been followed by many young architects.
Functionalist architecture is also to be found in Helsinki: the influence of Le Corbusier can be seen in the Lasipalasti, in the SOKOS department store, in the main Post Office and the Olympic Stadium.
During the 1950s, districts such as Haaga and Herttoniemi were developed with lots of open spaces and parks.

Other examples of modern architecture can be seen in:
- the Kiasma Museum of Contemporary Art (Steven Holl, 1998)
- Finnish National Opera (by the Hyvämäki-Karhunen-Parkkinen architectural partnership, 1993)
- the headquarters of the Helsingin Sanomat newspaper (Jan Söderlund and Antti-Matti Siikala, 1999)
Helsinki is at the cutting edge of the latest design trends as can be seen in the Sanomatalo building (1999) and the Tech Center (2001), constructions in glass and steel.

The Uspenski Cathedral
The Uspenski Cathedral, built in 1868 by Alexander M. GORNOSTAÏEV, is the largest orthodox church in Western Europe. With its golden cupolas and redbrick facade, the church is one of the clearest symbols of the Russian impact on Finnish history.
The Parliament
Between 1926-1931, the Parliament was made under J. S. Siren’s design, it’s now a heritage listed building and Finland's main representative 1920’s Classicism. Its monumental facade includes 14 Corinthian columns and was built of red granite. The construction of this building answered to two main specificities: it was made of Finnish materials and it represented the unity of architecture, art, workmanship and industrial design. Today, seats 200 Finnish deputes.
Presidential Palace - http://finlandia.hel.fi
The Presidential Palace, finished in 1820, was designed by Pehr GRANSTEDT and then modified by C. L. ENGEL for the use of the Tsar. During Finland’s independence, around 1917, the building served as the official residence of the President. The Palace can be visited by arrangement.
The Helsinki Olympic Stadium - www.stadion.fi
The stadium was built for the 1952’s Olympic Games and is still used for many sports events and concert. It was called the most beautiful stadium of the world. From the top of the stadium’s tower, you have a magnificent view over Helsinki.
Temppeliaukio Church
Quarried out of the natural bedrock, Temppeliaukio Church is one of Helsinki's most famous tourist attractions. Due to its excellent acoustics the church is an ideal venue for concerts.
Sealife
At Sealife, you can find many different types of sea animals of the North and the Baltic Sea. Interactive and educating materials enrich the visit.

PARKS AND GARDENS

Kaivopuisto Park
Helsinki’s oldest and most famous park. Lawns, beaches as well as teahouses and restaurants invite to relax.
Esplanade Park
Situated in the very centre of Helsinki, this protected area is used as a promenade. In summer live music is performed at the harbour end.
Sibelius Park
This park was named after Finnish composer, Jean Sibelius, on his 80th birthday in
1945. A monument of Jean Sibelius made by the sculptor Eila Hiltunen can be found in the park.
The municipal winter garden of Helsinki - www.hkr.hel.fi/viher
It accommodates over 200 varieties of plants: palm trees, camellias, cactuses, roses, …
Forests around Helsinki : Harakka
Easily reachable from Helsinki: many little islands around Helsinki like Harakka are linked by boat and during January -February even walking on the frozen sea.
The everglades of Viikki
A natural reserve of over 250 hectares with forests and many birds. You can get there by public transports.

Savonlinna
335 km from Helsinki, this town can be reached by various means of transport: coach, express train, boat and plane (regular flights taking 40 to 50 minutes).
The town is on three islands linked by bridges.
Between November-December and April-May, the landscape is covered with snow and almost all the lakes are frozen.
The centre of Savonlinna boasts a market place where you can find the specialities of the region. The Fine Arts Museum hosts a range of exhibitions, but the main attraction remains its castle.

Savonlinna Castle: Olavinlinna
There are many legends about this castle founded in 1475 by the governor of Vyborg and the knight Erik to protect the Savo region. Several Swedish and Russian regimes succeeded one another during its construction, hence the different architectural styles.
It was used until 1847 for military purposes, then as a prison and was finally abandoned. The first opera festival organised by the soprano Aino ACKTE was held in 1912.
This medieval castle, one of the best preserved in Finland, is open to visitors. It houses two museums.

Suomenlinna
A quarter of an hour from Helsinki by tourist boat, the fortress of Suomenlinna, founded in the 18th century, is one of the biggest maritime fortifications in the world. Included on the UNESCO list of World Heritage Sites, it is well worth a visit. The town itself offers pleasant cafés and restaurants and a museum of local history.

Tallinn
The capital of Estonia, 1 ¾ hours from Helsinki by ferry, is an ancient medieval city. You can easily spend a whole day visiting its town hall and square, St Olaf’s Church, the Dome Church with its magnificent view, the Alexander NEVSKI Russian Orthodox Cathedral, etc.

Porvoo
Porvoo is 50 km away, approximately an hour by road. The fishing village was founded in the 14th century. It is the second oldest town in Finland. Known above all for its Cathedral, which is where Mika HÄKKINEN was married, lovers of antiques, architecture and art will find plenty to delight them here.

Tuusula
A little village with chalets and old houses and the “Toivokuula” park, where you can visit Sibelius’ house.

Food & Drink

Traditions

Traditional customs

SPECIALITIES
As Finland is surrounded by water, fish dishes are very widespread: grilled or baked marinated Baltic herring, pike, lake herring, char or monkfish in sauce, baked, en croute or smoked, not forgetting salmon eaten fresh, smoked or salted and raw.
Finland is also the most forested country in Europe, therefore traditionally all the woodland berries such as raspberries, bilberries, wild strawberries, cranberries, mulberries, whortleberries, etc, as well as mushrooms such as boletus, chanterelles, girolles and horn of plenty are frequently included in dishes.
The meats coming from the woods include bear and elk.
The Finnish also eat many soups and salads.

Bread
For festivals, the Finnish often set out a tower of different kinds of bread. They prefer wholemeal varieties such as barley, whole wheat and oats.

Pulla
This is a small round bun. This very common pastry is eaten between meals. Several different varieties are available.

Hernekeitto
Soup made from split peas and pork shoulder.

Laskiispulla
A pastry filled with marzipan and whipped cream specially prepared for Shrove Tuesday.

Mämmi
This is a porridge-like pudding made from rye flour and malt and baked in the oven, which the Finnish eat at Easter.

BEVERAGES
Milk
Milk is essential in Finland: Traditionally, the Finnish people drink milk with every meal. Fermented milk (piimä) is a speciality.

Coffee
In average, a Finn consumes nine cups of very diluted coffee a day!

Beer
They have numbers from I to IV, according to their degree of alcohol.

Liqueurs
Lakka, Messumarja or Vadelma (arctic raspberry and blackberry).

Strong Alcohol
Vodka is drunk pure or with lemon-, cranberry- or black currant-flavoured.

Glögi
Spiced mullet wine is particularly drunk during Christmas period.

The sauna
Sauna is very important in Finland: it is said that “the first year, the Finn builds his sauna and the second year he builds his house around it.” Its role is hygienic but also social as the Finns meet there to discuss.

The sisu
The translation of the word sisu is “persistence” but its meaning is slightly different as it represent the Finnish soul, the calm and patience of this people.

The arrival of Spring
Children grow “ray-grass” on the windowsills, people put willow branches in a vase to make them flourish and they decorate their houses with tulips, lilies and daffodils.

The Easter trolls
In former times, Finns believed that between Good Friday and Easter Sunday trolls were coming. Nowadays, the children dressed up as witches go from house to house to recite spells and to obtain sweets or money.
In some villages, they still use to make fires in the Easter Morning to frighten the trolls.

Cross-country skiing
Cross-country skiing is a very popular sport in Finland as well as pedestrian tripping like for example the Bear Tour – an 80km-pedestrian tripping in the park of Oulanka with annually 10,000 to 15,000 participants.

Begenning of April
Helsinki Beer Festival - www.helsinkibeerfestival.com
Since 1998, this festival takes place in a former Nokia factory called Cable Factory. Beer, cider and whisky are served. The first day is totally dedicated to trade. In the evening and the day after, the festival is open to general public. In the evenings top Finnish bands perform live music.
Helsinki Beer Festival is known worldwide for its highly acclaimed Beer of the Year awards.

12th June: Helsinki Day
Helsinki Day celebrates the anniversary of the city's foundation in 1550 by King Gustavus Vasa of Sweden who asked the inhabitants of the surrounding villages to come to Helsinki to populate the new city.
The mayor of Helsinki pronounces a speech at nine in the morning and then the citizens are invited for breakfast.
During the day, admission to many museums and exhibitions is free and a lavish programme of events is arranged in parks, squares, and other public places.
In the evening, a big concert takes place in the park of Kaivopuisto.

The night of Friday to Saturday preceding 25th June
Eve of Saint John's Day (Juhannus Paiva).
This day, the Finns celebrate the shortest night and the longest day of the year. In the suedophone part of Finland, they put up the majstang, a decorated pole and little girls dance around it. All over the country people make fires.

End of August/beginning of September
The Helsinki Festival
This celebration is comparable to Thanksgiving. Live rock, jazz and classical music on the Senate Square.

15th until 25th September 2005:
Helsinki Film Festival - www.hiff.fi
Since1987, the festival aims to display Finnish and international performing and creative arts, while featuring artists, ensembles and exhibitions of the highest level.

2nd until 8th October 2005
Helsinki Herring Fair
This festival takes place on Helsinki’s Market Square at the end of the fishing season. Herring comes in all manners of styles - salted, sweet-pickled or pickled with onions, mustard and dill,...
This festival was created as fishermen, in former times, used to sell the last fish of the season in October and people was buying in bulk for stocking during the winter.

6th December
Independence Day
To celebrate the independence from Russia (1917) various parades take place, such as the students' torch parades, medals are awarded, and concerts are held. Shops decorate their windows in the blue and white of the Finnish flag and the people put a candle on their windowsill.

13th December
Saint Lucia
This holiday comes from the suedophone population in the 1920s. According to the legend, Lucia healed blinds and therefore, the tradition says that a young girl has to bring light to its environment during those dark periods of the year.
In Helsinki, every year, Saint Lucia march illuminates Helsinki’s centre.

Things to Do

Hotels

Restaurants

Finnish National Museum - www.nba.fi
Standing exhibitions on Finnish History, from prehistory to modern times. The museum’s exhibits are the result of over 170 years of collecting.

The Helsinki City Museum - www.helsinginkaupunginmuseo.fi
The main museum on Sofiankatu presents the exhibition "Helsinki Horizons" showing the history of the city over the past 450 years. The Street Museum on Sofiankatu presents roadstones and tools from the late 1700s to the 1930s.

Burgher’s House
The oldest wooden house of the city centre (1818), decorated in the burgher ‘s style of the 1860s.

The Museum of Finnish Architecture - www.mfa.fi
The museum’s collections focus on 20th century architecture.

Sports Museum of Finland - www.urheilumuseo.org
This collection is a must for sports fans, with almost 30,000 objects and over 200,000 photographs.

Ateneum Art Museum - www.ateneum.fi
Finland’s oldest and most respected art museum includes an impressive exhibition of Finnish art from the mid-1700s to the 1950s modernism. The Ateneum boasts the most significant collection of art from Finland’s golden age.

SHOPPING
The main shopping streets are Mannerheimintie, Aleksanterinkatu and the two Esplanades. The well-known “Finnish design” is well represented in Helsinki.

Shopping centres and department stores
- Kämp Galleria : on the north side of the Esplanade; design products.
- The shopping centre Kluuvi : located one block from the Senate Square.
- The Kiseleff House: on Aleksanterinkatu on the corner of the Senate Square; original handicrafts.
- Forum: offers lots of clothing shops, as well as home decorating and furniture shops.
- The shopping centre Itäkeskus : One of the largest shopping centres in the Nordic region with over 240 shops under the same roof.

Markets
- The Market Square (Kauppatori) : Helsinki’s most international and best known market; traditional high-quality food, handicrafts,...
(on the South Harbour at the end of the Esplanade Park)
- The old Market Hall : since 1889, meeting place for Helsinki food aficionados and a popular tourist attraction. (Eteläranta)
- Hietalahti Flea Market: one of Helsinki’s busiest shopping areas; big variety and relaxed atmosphere.
(Corner of Bulevardi and Hietalahdenkatu)
- Hakaniemi Market : breads, fruits, vegetables, berries, baked goods and flowers. (Siltasaarenkatu-Hakaniemenranta)
- Hakaniemi Hall: a variety of clothing, souvenirs and design as well as groceries and sweet goods.(beside the market)

Finnish Design
- Aarikka: designs gifts, utensils and jewellery in Finnish wood.
Pohjoisesplanadi 27 ; several boutiques throughout Helsinki.
- Aero : top-quality furniture and industrial design; Finnish and international classics as well as the latest products from modern designers.
(Yrjönkatu 8 A)
- Artek : the very popular Alvar Aalto’s designed furniture
(Eteläesplanadi 18)
- Formverk : Finnish company producing furniture and interior decoration goods according to Scandinavian design.
(Annankatu 5)
- Friends of Finnish Handwork : boutique featuring textiles from the early 1900s to today; high-quality art and domestic textiles as well as beautiful wood, glass and ceramic gifts.

Hôtel Kämp *****
Pohjoisesplanadi 29
Tel. +358 9 576 111 - Fax +358 9 576 1122
www.hotelkamp.fi
It is one of Scandinavia’s most luxurious hotels with 179 magnificent rooms, special suites like the Mannerheim suite (258m²) and also two restaurants. Sauna and fitness centre in the last floor.

The Hilton Helsinki Strand *****
John Stenbergin ranta 4
Tel : +358-9-39351 - Fax : +358-9-3935 3255 www.holidaycityscan.com/hilton-helsinki-strand/
The hotel is situated in a quiet area near the sea and offers all comforts.
It has 192 rooms, a Lounge&Bar, a fitness centre, a sauna and a swimming pool with a view towards the sea. The nice restaurant Bridges serves Finnish and international specialities as well as a delicious Hilton Breakfast. The attractions of the city centre – the Senate Square, the Market Square and the Ateneum – are at a few minutes walk.

The Seurahuone ****
Kaivokatu 12
Tel: +358 09 69 141 - Fax: +358 09 691 4010
www.cumulus.fi
The hotel opened in 1833 and nowadays one of the most popular hotel of Helsinki. It is located vis-à-vis of the train station, in the city centre. The Art Nouveau style creates a unique atmosphere within the hotel.

Rivoli Jardin ****
Kasarmikatu 40
Tel. +358 9 681 500 - Fax +358 9 656 988
www.rivoli.fi
As the hotel is in the very centre of Helsinki, the wonderful promenades, the Esplanades, the harbour and the market square are very close. This small hotel offers a very personal atmosphere, its 55 rooms are quiet and has all the necessary comforts.

Finnish specialities
AINO
Pohjoisesplanadi 21
Tel. +358 (0)9 624 327
In the very centre of Helsinki, near the Market Square Kauppatori. The decoration is modern and traditional at the same time. The menu contains traditional dishes : game, reindeer,… Diner in the vaults of a cellar.

Restaurant KELLARIKROUVI
Pohjoinen Makasiinikatu 6
Tel. +358 (0 9 686 0730
A traditional restaurant in the cellar of an historic building. Simple and personal decoration. The traditional menu is manifold.

Restaurant KOSMOS
Kalevankatu 3
Tel. +358 (0)9 647 255
A traditional restaurant known for its artist customers. Very informal and familial. Finnish and international cuisine.

Luxury gastronomy
Restaurant SIPULI
Kanavaranta 7
Tel. +358 (0)9 622 9280
This restaurant is in a former warehouse made out of red bricks next to the orthodox cathedral. The menu combines Nordic and international specialities. Winter garden.

Restaurant est.1887
Hotel Kämp, Pohjoisesplanadi 29
Tel. +358 (0)9 5761 1204
This restaurant is located in the heart of Helsinki, in the famous KÄMP Hotel. Luxurious and modern style. The original menu is composed of the best ingredients of the season.

Restaurant CHEZ DOMINIQUE
Ludviginkatu 3-5
Tel. +358-(0)9 612 7393
www.chezdominique.fi
The restaurant of the Scandinavian gourmet for whom traditions and modern ideas are in harmony with decoration and service.

Restaurant G.W SUNDMANS
Eteläranta 16
Tel. +358-(0)9 622 6410
This restaurant is in a 19th century building designed by the architect Carl Ludwig Engel. The dining room is decorated with pans out of faience and original frescos. The cuisine is a good Scandinavian one with a touch of French.

CAFES
- Cafe Ekberg, Bulevardi 9 : traditional café with fresh cakes.
- Cafe Esplanad, Pohjoisesplanadi 37 : known for its home-made cakes.
- Cafe Ursula, Ehrenströmintie 3 (Parc Kaivopuisto) : founded in 1952 for the Olympic games; in the South of Helsinki ; near the sea and next to a park.